Fit For A Queen?

An article in April's Gourmet magazine reiterates a statement originally made by its editor in chief, Ruth Reichl, in March 2005- "At this moment, London is the world's best place to eat." Having made a recent trip to London, I can attest to the fact that the food is much more appealing than it is oftentimes made out to be on this side of the pond, but stating that it is the "best in the world" is rather bold, and in my opinion, unexplained. Gourmet fails to make available to its readers the criteria used to determine how it came to this conclusion. Why is London currently the best place to eat? Is it the birthplace of a culinary innovation? How do presentation, flavor, atmosphere and price factor in?

Severely jet-lagged after a long flight from New York's JFK Airport, I met up with a friend to commence our tour of London with lunch and afternoon tea at the St. James's Restaurant located on the top floor of Fortnum & Mason. While I wouldn't recommend indulging in dishes as filling as risotto and gnocchi when your body clock is telling you it's 7:00 a.m., the atmosphere was relaxed (far above the hustle and bustle of Piccadilly Circus), and the food was appetizing.

Cream of cauliflower soup with chive oil- St. James's Restaurant

Roasted pumpkin risotto with sage and parmesan- St. James's Restaurant

Potato gnocchi with wild mushrooms and truffle veloute- St. James's Restaurant

Lemon sole 'normande'- St. James's Restaurant

Tea- St. James's Restaurant


In the days that followed, we sampled meat pies, puddings, and fish and chips in London's innumerable pubs. We chatted with vendors and satisfied our cravings at Portobello Road Market where the food is plentiful and is layered with complexity that is unrivaled by New York City's food stalls (I'd do almost anything to avoid a water-soaked hot dog).

Chocolate and almond tarts- Portobello Road Market

Rustic fruit tarts- Portobello Road Market

Dried fruits and nuts- Portobello Road Market

Variety from the "Olive Bar" buckets- Portobello Road Market

Seafood paella- Portobello Road Market


When we wanted to branch outside of the traditional British fare and experience something a little more sophisticated than Portobello Road Market, we hit up the Cinnamon Club for an Indian inspired menu and Zuma for sake cocktails and Japanese cuisine. The menu at the Cinnamon Club proved so memorable that I purchased the restaurant's cookbook and persistently attempt to recreate Vivek Singh's masterpieces in the comforts of my very small Manhattan kitchen.

I have learned over the years that taste, particularly when it involves food and restaurants, is entirely subjective. That being said, my idea of what makes something "the best" may not always mesh with someone else's. Many of the dishes I tasted while visiting London were bursting with bold flavors (is this what makes them fit for a Queen?), but I certainly would not categorize my overall dining experience as being "the best in the world" - especially without providing an explanation.